Types of Lashes
We now have such a vast variety of lengths, curls and thickness of lashes so that we can select the correct extensions to use on our clients. The techniques of combining these together, different curls and lengths and mapping is the key to creating that special, individual look our clients desire:
traditional classic lashes
Classic Lashes (also known as ‘individual eyelash extensions’) have been around for years. Classics are the first original method of a single false lash being glued onto a single natural lash. The ultimate lash aim for a flawless natural look is to have every single natural lash attached to a false lash in order to achieve that ‘full’ look. The process of classic lashes takes anywhere between 45 minutes to 2 hours, anything done quicker than this please beware.
Faux Mink lashes are a traditional lash (with a round base).
Ellipse lashes have a flattened base and 0.15 ellipse lashes taper to a 0.07
This makes that .15 look like a .20 without the added weight. Also, due to the shape, the contact area with the natural lash is greater which in turn helps increase retention.
Semi Gloss vs Satin Finish
The semi-gloss lashes have a beautiful luster and shine to them.
The satin ellipse lashes have less of a shine to them, more closely reflecting the finish of regular lash extensions.
When it comes to eyelash extensions, everyone has a different preference. Surprisingly, most people don’t know the difference between cluster and volume lashes. Both types are “individual” eyelash extensions and have multiple lashes in a fan, but there’s a big difference when it comes to the look and health of your eyes.
Cluster Lashes are pre-made fans with multiple eyelashes on them, as you can see in the picture below.
The problem with most cluster eyelash extensions is that they are applied to multiple eyelashes at once and the bases are usually bulky from the adhesive that holds them together, which causes follicle tension. Because lashes grow at different stages, the tension from the cluster can cause premature lash loss. This can lead to a type of permanent hair loss called Traction Alopecia if done repeatedly.
As you can see in this picture, the natural lashes are all clumped together in one massive glue pile…ouch!
When you use a premade fan you are also using double the adhesive that is needed, making the bases more clumpy and weighted. Excessive glue not only leads to irritation and allergies, but gives the eyelashes a clumped and heavy look. Because cluster lashes are so wide, they often cover free eyelashes so instead, they are glued to the eyelid. This is extremely dangerous for the eye and skin.
They are a fan of eyelashes knotted at the base (not to be confused with volume lashes)
Cluster eyelash extensions – far too heavy for your natural eyelashes
They are applied with glue on top of each other along the lash line. Eyelash extensions/volume lashes are applied to one single eyelash with military precision. Clusters are closer to gluing an entire false eyelash to your eyelid as they are glued together and therefore don’t shed with your human eyelash.
Any certified lash technician, you should know the side effects and dangers of cluster lashes.
WHY THEY CAUSE DAMAGE
They are far too heavy and they pull on all the eyelashes, overuse could lead to permanent eyelash loss (traction alopecia). Your natural hairs cannot shed at the end of their cycle and your eye becomes a breeding ground for infection. There is a lot of adhesive involved and in many cases it’s touching the skin and blocking the follicle, so new eyelashes are unable to grow and you risk ingrowing hairs or styes.
Eyelash extension adhesive should be kept away from the skin. It’s not designed to touch it and should be used extremely delicately.
WHY DO CLIENTS LIKE THEM?
They are cheap, they last and a very dramatic look can be achieved.
However they are not designed to be worn for longer than a week (we would never recommend wearing them at all given the amount of adhesive required).
The client won’t experience cluster extensions shedding with the natural eyelash (this is crucial to maintaining healthy natural lashes whilst wearing extensions) and therefore thinks they are a longer lasting, cheaper option.
WHAT’S THE LONG TERM EFFECT?
When clusters are applied the start to weigh down and pull out your natural lashes whilst creating a matted breeding ground for infection.
The amount of adhesive (we’ve seen cases of very high strength adhesive being used) and skin contact could easily trigger a severe immune response from the body and, once that’s occurred; the client is allergic to eyelash extension adhesive for life.
A recent client had worn cluster eyelash extensions for three months and had about 20% of her natural lashes remaining. Sadly we could not apply individual extensions and we just hope her natural eyelashes can begin to grow back.
WHAT CAN YOU DO?
If you suspect that the technician may be applying cluster eyelashes then simply ask to look at the extensions they are about to apply. If you see anything like the image of clusters shown above then avoid. You want to see something that looks like either of the below:
Moving onto Volume Lashes, as the name suggests, have the ability to create much more volume to your set of lashes. Volume lashes are a newer addition and a very welcome technique to the beauty industry. Volume lashes are more versatile than classic lashes in a sense of achieving either a natural or glam look. They have a more fluffy and full appearance and range anywhere from 2-10D which refers to how many lashes are attached to each one individual lash.
Volume, like cluster lashes, are multiple eyelashes attached to one eyelash. However, volume lashes are much safer than cluster lashes as they are applied to individual and isolated eyelashes. There are usually 2-6 false eyelashes placed on every natural lash for volume sets, depending on the desired look. These lashes are very light, and don’t weigh down or damage the natural lash. Look at the picture below to see a perfect example of volume lashes!
Volume lashes give a much fuller and cleaner look than cluster eyelashes. Just look at the stark difference between this photo and the outgrown clusters above!
Volume lashes also have longer bond times than cluster lashing because each volume lash creates multiple pockets of adhesive that form beam like shapes along the lashes. Also, volume lashes provide a much higher surface bonding area. There are multiple surfaces surrounding the natural lash and extensions with adhesive.
But, beware of premade volume fans that are glued together before application. Even if they are hand-made they will be dipped in glue twice – once on the fan and once to attach. This can create a bulky and unhealthy look. Also, premade fans don’t wrap around your lashes like regular volume lashes do because they have already been glued together. When you make the fans on command they wrap around the natural lash when you apply them. Attaching a premade fan keeps the extensions sitting on top of the lash, and it doesn’t wrap around the lash to give a natural look.